Accessories & Repair
Crack repair, patching compound, and the tools the job actually needs.
There is no accessory listing yet. Rather than leave the page empty, here is an honest account of what the job asks for beyond the coating, so you can price it, borrow it or have it in the garage before the kit arrives.
FPO — every item on this page
This is a working list, not a confirmed one. Nothing below is stocked, nothing is priced, and nobody has yet confirmed which of it ships inside a kit and which you supply. Read it as the shape of the job. Do not read it as a shopping list.
Preparing the slab
This is the part that decides whether the floor sticks, and it is the part people skip. The data sheet specifies abrasive blasting, shot blasting, grinding, or in some cases acid etching, and says to check with the manufacturer for the recommendation that suits your slab.
- A diamond grinder with a dust shroud, and a vacuum that can keep up with it. Most people hire both for a weekend rather than buy them. FPO: disc grade and machine size not confirmed.
- Crack repair and patching material, plus the time to let it cure before anything goes over it. FPO: no product selected.
- A way to get the floor clean and properly dry afterwards. Grinding dust left on a slab is a bond breaker.
Floor preparation covers what grinding actually involves, and concrete moisture covers the test worth doing before any of it.
Mixing
Anvil Coat-AE is a two-part product, 2:1 by volume, 2.4:1 by weight resin to hardener, packaged pre-measured. Each part is stirred on its own first, then combined and mixed for two to three minutes with a Jiffy-style paddle. Mixing a whole unit at a time is the safe habit; splitting a pre-measured unit is how ratios go wrong.
- A drill with enough torque to turn a mixing paddle through a thick 100% solids resin for three minutes without stalling or overheating. FPO: drill specification not confirmed.
- A Jiffy-style mixing paddle, which is what the data sheet names. FPO: size not confirmed, and whether one ships with the kit is not decided.
Pot life is 24 to 30 minutes at 75°F. That is the real constraint on the day: it decides how much you mix at once and how many hands you need moving. Warmer than 75°F and it is shorter.
Putting it down
- A notched squeegee to spread the base coat, and a roller to back-roll it. FPO: notch depth and roller nap depend on the specified thickness and are not confirmed.
- Spiked shoes, if you have to walk on wet coating to broadcast into it. FPO: not confirmed for the flake build.
- A brush for edges and any coving, and tape and sheeting for everything you do not want coated. FPO.
- A stiff broom or a squeegee for sweeping off the flake that does not stick, once the base coat has gone firm. FPO.
Protecting yourself
The base coat resin’s safety data sheet classifies it as both an acute and a chronic health hazard, and it carries a California Proposition 65 listing for titanium dioxide. Its stated hazards are skin irritation, serious eye irritation and the possibility of an allergic skin reaction, which is exactly what the gloves are for. Gloves, eye protection and ventilation are not optional on this job.
Storing the kit before you use it
The coating is stored between 50–110°F, and has a shelf life of at least twelve months sealed and properly stored. A kit that overwinters in an unheated garage is outside that range. If your kit is going to sit for a while before the weather is right, keep it somewhere heated and tell us — the storage window matters more than most people expect. Storage is not the same as readiness: bring the kit to 60–80°F for 48 hours before use before you open anything. Cold material is thick and will not level; hot material goes off in the pail before it reaches the floor.
When the listing opens
What ANVIL actually sells will be on this page, and the rest of this list will still be a list. Until then, ask us before you spend money on any of it. That conversation is free, and it is cheaper than a squeegee with the wrong notch.